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Post by peatmoss on Oct 2, 2011 11:42:54 GMT -5
Hi,
I am currently experincing some problems with my Cephalotus. I got the plant last November and it did not really grow all winter and lost a few pitchers, but in the spring it really exploded in growth and put out a couple of new growing points and lots of pitchers and leaves. It even produced a few mature pitchers. Now the plant is starting to yellow and the developing pitchers are starting to yellow and go black. the plant is in a 6 to 7 inch pot that is about 6 inches across in a 40% peat to 60% perlite mix that was recommended by the seller. The humidity is about 50 to 60% and the temps are 70 to 80 degrees. I bottom water the plant once every 1 and a half weeks. I think that the problem is that the humidity is too low and it is too dry.
Sorry for the long post, Thanks, Gabriel
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Post by bonfield on Oct 2, 2011 14:30:02 GMT -5
Mine are grown in roughly 3:2:1 peat:sand:perlite, mounded in 4" containers. The best results I have had are when they are given humidity domes and top-watered around the edge of the pot about every week(or when the drainage tray has sufficiently dried).
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Post by peatmoss on Oct 2, 2011 14:51:25 GMT -5
I am thinking I will repot because the soil it is in seems to dry and is a bit too difficult to hydrate with bottom watering. I think I will try to increase the humidity as well.
Thanks, Gabriel
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Post by bonfield on Oct 2, 2011 14:55:03 GMT -5
A top-dressing of live sphagnum is also helpful for creating a nice, humid environment for pitcher development, but it will have to be trimmed back periodically, especially with the humidity domes.
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Post by peatmoss on Oct 2, 2011 15:13:46 GMT -5
Thanks!
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Post by bonfield on Oct 2, 2011 16:05:01 GMT -5
You're welcome! Also, using a pot that is taller than wide(my 4" containers are 5" deep) is advised for cephs long roots. Once the pitchers have formed, a betta pellet every 2 weeks or so combined with an established springtail population should have it thriving fairly soon!
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Post by lloyd on Oct 2, 2011 16:48:04 GMT -5
Cephs do tend to wax and wane-for me anyway.
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Post by peatmoss on Oct 2, 2011 17:12:50 GMT -5
Cephs do tend to wax and wane-for me anyway. I thought that what it was doing was just a dieback of old growth but the developing pitchers started yellowing so I thought it would be a good time to see if I could correct any cultivation errors. Thanks, Gabriel
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Post by shoggoths on Oct 2, 2011 20:20:17 GMT -5
Does the lids of the mature ptichers have closed ?
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Post by H2O on Oct 3, 2011 10:06:11 GMT -5
I would find the 3:2:1 mix a little peat heavy. I use 1:1:1 peat perlite and silica sand, it drains better and you typically have less problems with rot.
I also agree that tall pots work best.
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Post by peatmoss on Oct 3, 2011 14:58:15 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help!
I will defenantly repot. Would it be safe to take some root cuttings?
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Post by bonfield on Oct 3, 2011 17:09:38 GMT -5
The 3:2:1 mix would certainly be too peat-heavy a substrate if left flat, but I make sure to create a tall mound in the middle of the pot so the plant's crown is at the absolute high ground, plus I only water around the border of the container. This mix also doesn't have a much higher peat:drainage medium ratio than the 1:1 peat:perlite mix mentioned earlier.
I'm also hoping to repot soon, if my roots are large enough, I'll be taking some 1-2" inch cuttings and placing them on chopped live sphagnum over 1:1 peat:perlite, with humidity domes, bright light, and occasional misting.
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Post by peatmoss on Oct 3, 2011 17:37:19 GMT -5
Great!
I will also try root cuttings if the roots are large enough.
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