|
Post by petmantis on Jun 24, 2009 17:47:09 GMT -5
Is it possible to propagate erect Sarracenia by leaf pulling? I know it can be done for the shorter/ground hugging ones like Purpurea or Psittacina, but I have a few leaves on my sarrs which aren't too eye catching (some are really ugly and mutated, others just phyllodia ) that I would like to pull off and try to root (and of course make a new plant ) Has anyone tried this method of propagation with erect Sarrs? I'm mainly looking at Minor, Oreophila and Leucophylla.
|
|
|
Post by tom on Jun 24, 2009 18:57:36 GMT -5
i've done it on 2 leaf of S. purpurea f heterophylla, but after 1 year, all what aws formed was calli, nothings like a leaf or such... never tried with erect sarracenia though
|
|
|
Post by khoas on Jun 24, 2009 20:49:10 GMT -5
I have, it take two years to develop a reasonable plant. Use rooting hormone and keep in light shade.
|
|
|
Post by lloyd on Jun 24, 2009 21:03:03 GMT -5
Tom: when you say calli, do you mean it was in TC?
|
|
|
Post by tom on Jun 24, 2009 21:05:13 GMT -5
no, it was on pure moist sphagnum moss in a closed container, but there was an organized cell mass formation on the leaf base, similar of those seen in TC (i'll try to take a picture this week if i still got them)
|
|
|
Post by mabudon on Jun 24, 2009 23:11:10 GMT -5
Yeah, like "calluses", makes a "knot" but doesn't actually do anything (I think I'm right here, I talk to Tommy a lot and kind of can intuit what he means when terminology is in question haha)
The leaf base makes a green knob but doesn't actually result in anything- is that it??
|
|
|
Post by dvg on Jun 24, 2009 23:22:04 GMT -5
I was wondering if a rooting hormone was applied to the 'knob' at this point if it could be encouraged to root, as khoas suggested.
|
|
|
Post by mabudon on Jun 25, 2009 9:14:38 GMT -5
I would imagine so, it sounds like if it gets that far it's obviously trying to do something... Hopefully a more science-minded person will chime in since I got nothin past that
|
|
|
Post by barryrice on Jul 23, 2009 10:25:48 GMT -5
I've gotten leaf pullings to work on S. psittacina, S. purpurea subsp. venosa, and S. rosea. I've gotten a callus mass to form on S. alabamensis subsp. wherryi (=S. rubra subsp. wherryi), but nothing past that. Other Sarracenia did nothing in my experiments, but I bet that treated some special, correct way, they would.
I did not use rooting hormones.
|
|
|
Post by barryrice on Jul 26, 2009 21:52:26 GMT -5
Not really. I just pull the leaf off the plant, put the leaf about 1/2-way buried in Sphagnum, and then baggie it.
I'm thinking that making sacrifices to minor deities might help.
B
|
|
|
Post by z on Jul 26, 2009 22:13:00 GMT -5
I was reading the book "Carnivorous Plants of the World" by James and Patricia Pietropaolo and on page 37 it mentioned that they had 100% success with leaf cuttings that had roots on it. I do not have any experiance with this myself, but it might be something worth trying out.
|
|
|
Post by tom on Jul 27, 2009 6:03:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by petmantis on Jul 27, 2009 13:49:53 GMT -5
thanks Tom! that's perfect
|
|
|
Post by z on Jul 27, 2009 20:37:02 GMT -5
The book included a small diagram of the pulling, it seems like there was a piece of rhizome with the leaf. I do not have any sarras at the moment, so I don't really know how it would work out.
Here is the instructions from the book:
"Remove the leaf (pitcher) with a small piece of the rhizome attached, dip end in Rootone powder and place in damp sphagnum moss. Dust the cutting and medium with a fungicide. Keep humidity high and provide bright light. Keep the temperature in the 70-85F (21-29.5C) range. Transplant when leaves and roots have developed.
Success rate is fair for cuttings without roots. It is 100% for cuttings with roots."
Seems like a very general tip, and as Tom's article stated, cutting a piece of the rhizome with the root might put the mother plant at risk of infection.
|
|
|
Post by barryrice on Jul 29, 2009 10:55:26 GMT -5
If memory serves, it was mostly dead but with some live sprigs here or there. Live would, almost certainly, be best.
I suspect seasonality MIGHT be relevent, i.e., doing this before, during, or after flowering might have different results.
B
|
|