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Post by Syble on Apr 3, 2008 8:26:44 GMT -5
I know alot of uk growers are having problems with "sudden ceph death"... The discussion has basically come to as the plant gets bigger it's tap roots hit the bottom of the pot and become water logged... They then start to rot up... If there is alot of side root growth then they are able to bounce back, but its a cycle, if not then they die rather quickly.
I'm used to seing salts deposits on soil, but always been yellow/white on soil and only the highest points. ocasionally black tips on live sphagnum. I cannot fully expalin it, but the crust is different. Its a solid crust covering the low and high points in the soil. I use rain water so My contaminents could be comming from there but ricks got RO system and same thing. Sib :wink:
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Post by jay on Apr 3, 2008 15:17:59 GMT -5
stop useing the sand then , ive never had anything like that happen ...eh
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Post by vraev on Apr 3, 2008 15:45:58 GMT -5
this is one of the reasons why I stopped my searches for sand. I found that my current brands of Schultz perlite, gardener's peat moss has been proven safe for CP's. Its my opinion to stick with things that work (atleast for your main plant) and just work with variations in the media to make an airy media. The possibilities of finding the wrong type of sand, contamination is higher compared to perlite which is mostly available as a pure product.
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Post by Sawchuk on Apr 3, 2008 17:55:00 GMT -5
hmm so im begining the transplant or removal whatever happens
my question is that a new bag of peatmoss iv purchased has these green balls which to me look like a fertilizer, the brand i use is
Schultz canadian sphagnum peatmoss premium it says nothing about nutrients and says its a natural material?? am i trippin??
thx for the input everyone hopefully this guy can bounce back, i really appreciate the comments jaybomb youv obviously been through it with this species and your knowledge seems endless eh, so keep it commin bud anyhitng to coax me throughs much needed obviously
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Post by lloyd on Apr 3, 2008 18:18:23 GMT -5
Green balls? Don't use it until you know what they are. I use the peatmoss that comes in compressed bales in every hardware/garden/grocery store. It's incredibly cheap and just peat with some plant debris.
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Post by Sawchuk on Apr 3, 2008 18:26:36 GMT -5
wow wow that was CLOSE!!!!
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Post by Sawchuk on Apr 3, 2008 18:32:26 GMT -5
i dunno what they are it doesent say anyhting about them
and i just squished one and friging white liquid came out ARRRRRRGGGGGG #^$* $*^%# %( if there was a phone #, id call
anyone in missisagua ontario?? lol
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Post by Sawchuk on Apr 3, 2008 19:22:22 GMT -5
here it is all my pics can be enlarged for anyone who cares for a closeup hmmm so no white or pink roots?? maybe root rot?? im htinkin i should remove the blackpart including the roots and replant, keep it fairly humid since it will be sitting in a west window with no direct sun, first a spray of defender, then later ill top it off with the water soluable trich?? hows that for a procedure?? some quick input would be great!!!OH OH OH n since im all about the rotten pics these days here are some juicier ones, although basic
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Post by vraev on Apr 3, 2008 20:26:48 GMT -5
mississauga, ontario? I am currently in hamilton ontario. but whats up?? lol! dude....don't get schultz peat moss. that was my mistake as well when I started with VFT's. I even potted them up and 4 hrs later realised, unpotted..bought a bale and then washed them well and used it. Return the bag of the schultz one. Their perlite is the only good product. Well...i have been using it for an yr now. The white thing on those roots is probably fungus. Probably! The root corm isn't completely dead. But it seems to be creeping up form the bottom. Iam not sure....but that black part seems dead. I don't want to kil your ceph...but if I were you: I would: - cut off all the black dead leaves, leave only the healthy part - cut the corm so that you only have the white portion. - just plant that black part somewhere on the side in another pot...just in case. Put it on the surface...lightly sprinkle some media. for the cleaned white part with the leaves. Clean it well. I never used defender...but you have the trich I sent ya. Just make a solution.....soak this thing in it for 15 min or so. Do u have the granules as well?? Make a new media.... use 40% peat , 40% perlite...some bark, some LFS if you have them...if not go heavy on the perlite. Then use a teaspoon of those granules (or less depending on how much media u are making). then basically pot it up such taht the leaves are above the surface. Let the media be nice and loose. Then basically water. Note: the media will dry fast. You need to water atleast once in 2 -3 days. But it works for me.
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Post by Sawchuk on Apr 3, 2008 21:31:34 GMT -5
negitive of the granuales my friend, also those pics are disciving there is NO white stuff on the plant such as fungas only the dead black part, the white is actually water with a dab of defender , i did not notice that actually, sorry for the confusion
im purchased a bale and have made a appropratly lite mix
the water soluable can be used as the granular can it not??
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Post by vraev on Apr 3, 2008 21:53:07 GMT -5
yup! the water soluble thing is the same as granular. I guess this is what you do then:
- prepare your mix in a bucket or whatever. DRY MIX - Use a concentration of 1 teaspoon per gallon to make the solution. - NOW use that solution to hydrate the mix. Remember peat repels water when dry. So make sure you nicely squeeze it in water to make it absorb the water. - Basically use water sparingly. You want to just use enough water to have a nice damp dense mix. if you scoop some media with your palm...and then squeeze it, you should see water trickle pour out. That means its well hydrated. - Basically yeah...use this for potting. Do not pack the pot... just put media lightly in the pot. Then put the plant (with the white corm and the leaf on the surface). carefully just surround or support the rhizome with the media. - Then again water with the trich water.
NOW.... remember....trich needs a while to set into the media and to the plant's roots. So basically you are not supposed to water for atleast a couple of days. However, if you have to (when u use a light media), water sparinly. It shouldn't drain out. You are basically watering to rehydrate the media.
With these conditions, given enough light, good humidity, your ceph should recover. It will take a month or more. But I have done this...and you just need to keep a close eye. Leave it alone. don't let it get tooo hot as well. I wouldn't recommend it in your outdoor setup. Grow it inside under lights. Maybe use a transparent bag to bag it up for humidity. open the bag everyday atleast once to just ensure taht the air is fresh.
Thats all you can do atm. Don't worry. With half of the corm alive....the chances that this can work (if done carefully and taken care of) are over 95%.
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Post by vraev on Apr 3, 2008 21:54:12 GMT -5
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Post by Rick Hillier on Apr 4, 2008 5:56:28 GMT -5
My ceph giant was decling rather quickly... that nice fat pitcher went brown within a day, although several others are still hanging in there. The crown also still has new green growth coming out of it... I've transplanted it into LFS and hopefully, it will recover.
I think I'm going to give up on the sand for a while and go with lots of perlite as recommended in this thread.
Here's hoping for the best.
>>> Rick <<<
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Post by vraev on Apr 4, 2008 6:58:54 GMT -5
Good luck Rick! go for it. The perlite I have been using so far has shown to be good for CP's as long as you use distilled water or RO water.
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Post by Syble on Apr 4, 2008 12:55:04 GMT -5
It seams like the only safe peat moss to buy is the compressed bales... I posted about the green prills a while ago(like maybe years ago lolha). I didn't notice when i potted some sundews up, but the result was very evident! Sib
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