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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 11, 2016 19:29:00 GMT -5
Hi, I am, had my cephalotus for a whole and it just got maybe 6 new pitchers but they are not mature. It got 1 new mature pitcher and is growing fast. Since I bought it and put it under lights it hasn't really grown any leaves. I would like to propigate it so I can have a few plants. I think leaves are the best way. How can I encourage it to produce leaves? Should I put it under filtered light? And let it produce mostly LEAVES? Thanks
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 12, 2016 7:56:15 GMT -5
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 12, 2016 15:57:05 GMT -5
It has little traps about 1cm or less long. Will those Work? Do I wait until the traps open? Thanks for your Help! I will definatly give it a go with PITCHERS!
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 12, 2016 16:00:56 GMT -5
Just looked at the link. How long did it take to form the Plants? I know roots come first so the plants. How long? Thanks. I did leaf cuttings about 2 weeks ago and they all rooted. But I don't know when pitchers will form. What's FASTER? Thanks
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 13, 2016 2:05:25 GMT -5
I had even sometimes a first leaf and Pitcher before roots. All in all just the same as leafs. I have leafs which take longer under these conditions but there are pitchers which take their time too. The pitchers dont have to be open but be carefull while you take them. Bruised or crushed ones died usually within a few weeks. I never had mould with this system, maybe because of the live Sphagnum. Here is one of my smallest traps rooting in a German forum, just scroll down. forum.carnivoren.org/forums/topic/40941-blattstecklinge-methode-plastikdose/?page=2Light is a LED bulb with 6500 K and 400 lumen for 4 of these boxes.
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 13, 2016 6:43:54 GMT -5
I had even sometimes a first leaf and Pitcher before roots. All in all just the same as leafs. I have leafs which take longer under these conditions but there are pitchers which take their time too. The pitchers dont have to be open but be carefull while you take them. Bruised or crushed ones died usually within a few weeks. I never had mould with this system, maybe because of the live Sphagnum. Here is one of my smallest traps rooting in a German forum, just scroll down. forum.carnivoren.org/forums/topic/40941-blattstecklinge-methode-plastikdose/?page=2Light is a LED bulb with 6500 K and 400 lumen for 4 of these boxes. Thank you for your help. I have done a few leaves and pitcher cuttings/pullings. To see which ones are faster. I have a video on youtube if you want to see it. Please let me know what I did right or wrong. Thanks my channel is Outdoors And Botanical
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 13, 2016 11:24:02 GMT -5
The way I do it just in life Sphagnum rainwater and no peat, the are kept much more moist than in your pots. In peat and perlite it did not work as well. Pitchers tend to dry up there and live Sphagnum did not allow the growth of any mold so far. I had even for a short time some nearly dead twig of Basilikum which was infected with Botrytis.
It grew out of the twig within two days, so I had to throw it away. But no other plant in the same box got this mould though it had already fruited as it looked. Even some of the non infected dying leafs of the Basilikum which fell off got no fungus while they yellowed. You are able to check in only Sphagnum without disturbing the root. I have to cut it down with a scissor, but this will be used for new boxes, because the right fungus grows in there. I dont believe in right or wrong too many very different methods work especially with Cephalotus. Maybe even some very little amount of Boron is a cause for healthy plants. I started to use this spring because its a remedy for crown rot in a great variety of other plants.
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 13, 2016 15:01:07 GMT -5
The way I do it just in life Sphagnum rainwater and no peat, the are kept much more moist than in your pots. In peat and perlite it did not work as well. Pitchers tend to dry up there and live Sphagnum did not allow the growth of any mold so far. I had even for a short time some nearly dead twig of Basilikum which was infected with Botrytis. It grew out of the twig within two days, so I had to throw it away. But no other plant in the same box got this mould though it had already fruited as it looked. Even some of the non infected dying leafs of the Basilikum which fell off got no fungus while they yellowed. You are able to check in only Sphagnum without disturbing the root. I have to cut it down with a scissor, but this will be used for new boxes, because the right fungus grows in there. I dont believe in right or wrong too many very different methods work especially with Cephalotus. Maybe even some very little amount of Boron is a cause for healthy plants. I started to use this spring because its a remedy for crown rot in a great variety of other plants. I have a bit of live sphagnum in culture, but not enough to harvest yet. I will put them in some dried Sphagnum. Thanks for your help. I may leave a few in the pot to see if they do work haha
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 13, 2016 15:52:26 GMT -5
Dried Sphagnum did not work with me. Maybe it was another reason. My setup is a very good way to propagate Sphagnum. I harvest with a scissor and in no time the plastic box is full. It does not die down because it grows there very spacey und every little bit grows a new head.
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 16, 2016 10:08:52 GMT -5
Dried Sphagnum did not work with me. Maybe it was another reason. My setup is a very good way to propagate Sphagnum. I harvest with a scissor and in no time the plastic box is full. It does not die down because it grows there very spacey und every little bit grows a new head. I chopped up some live stuff about 3 inches long and layed it on the moist dried Sphagnum and it all turned up right and is growing. Along the layed down pieces, will they produce little growth Points? I also layed some on moist paper towel i a container in a zip lock half opened and it grew Long and the tips split into 3 shoots and nothing coming up from the layed down pieces, so I'm not sure. It's my first time we will see how it goes. Is it best in cooler conditions? And i planted the cephalotus cuttings into some moist dried Sphagnum with a tiny bit of perlite.
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 16, 2016 15:30:43 GMT -5
My temperature is something between 20 and 25 C°. Sphagnum grows faster and I cut it down or push it down from time to time. Growth is very spacey so it is enough light for the Cepahalotus even if it grows above.
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 16, 2016 15:47:38 GMT -5
Ok that's what I have been doing with the sphagnum, folding it down and cutting it and laying it down. Do I just do that and after a while it will fill In?
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Post by partisangardener on Sept 17, 2016 3:34:36 GMT -5
Exactly
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Post by exoticplantseller on Sept 17, 2016 6:15:20 GMT -5
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Post by kawarthapine on Nov 27, 2016 17:46:48 GMT -5
A great way to propagate moss (just about any type) is to put a live chunk in a blender and then mix it with live yogurt. Spead a thin layer on wax paper on a tray or board and moss will start growing within days.
I have used this method with success to establish dense mats of moss between patio stones and I'm sure it would work equelly well in a greenhouse or a growroom.
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